LEGACY UNITS and the GRAVEYARD


ALL IS NOT LOST, SOME ARE STILL GOOD,

SOME DEADER THAN KELSY’s BALLS!


THE VIVITAR 283-285 THE MOST POPULAR STROBE EVER BUILT

END OF THE ROPE, HANGING UP REPAIRS, PACKS STILL AVAILABLE

My supply of good 285HV Vivitars has dried up.   Adorama and B&H  have moved on to newer products and manufacturers.   Thank goodness, I was getting disgusted because the last batch the Strobists got excited about from mainland China were junk and I received a ton of eMails if I could still repair them.  

They were the ones with no country of origin, the molds were altered and filled on the bottom, to hide the country of manufacture and had blue clear covers over the side plates.  I first worked on these in the late sixties early seventies, thats a long run.  And we had parts. The 283-285’s, manufactured in five locations in the world, Japan, Taiwan, Korea, Mainland China and a few from Indonesia (Very Rare, I only saw one)

I received many of them,  blown, and useless since a few I opened had no consistency.  Nothing to fix, not worth it.  They were designed for the “Surge” that occurred when the “Strobists” went gaga over them.   B&H, Adorama and others went into full court retail, SAKAR had the molds and the race was on... most in the garbage today. 

I will not work on them for repair  or any other Vivitars any more, I have run out of parts, none available,  and the demand has dropped since there is a lot newer and in peoples minds slightly better stuff on the market.  You might if lucky and pay too much find metal feet and if you order a pack I will build modules, just no repairs. Dead, trash it.

The other big false-hood was lies about it guide number, it is not by any stretch of the imagination a strobe with a guide of 120. I have probably tested two thousand of them over the years and the strongest were the Japanese at 8.8. One hit 9.1 on a Sekonic 358 using a few tricks.  The Japanese may have high voltage synchs but were killer strobes , strong and powerful.

Originally  I called it the  285HV the “Cockroach,” not especially a nice name but accurate.  Since it’s outlasted everything in the photo industry and refuses to go away.   They date Circa late, late 60’s early 70’s to today.   I have been modifying them since day one, minimum fifty plus years, I’m not even sure no more.

Though old and not compatible for some, (I couldn't care less) in some cases (no TTL) they can still perform admirably if you are a savvy manual shooter, they have been cared for, and have usefulness in background, table top, wedding and a favorite with the Teddy Bear Strobist Revolutionaries.  

The photo right of my 283  portable crash case, I ganged five when shooting large objects like Lear Jets and Fire trucks at night for brochures and lit them off with time exposure and a nail board.

All of mine had upgraded HD metal shoes, upgraded direct Jacobs Modules, all are 283,s,  Modules locked down, safetied, never had a battery in them,  and run on my Black boxes.  Simple easy, non-conflicting.  I used them for forty years.  Top three in a gang 10 degrees apart and the bottom two on longer power cords for the outer edges of the large objects.  I used three Black Boxes for power till I built the 

“KOWER- BONGER”,  the huge Black Box show on the left, which went to a board with five triggers.

These were Japanese 283’s, stronger than death but they used good HD components in those days,  and the nail-board time exposures with a 4x5 and cinder block light stands*** for steady-ness worked great.  

No synch problem but I still used rubber gloves with the nail board, thick rubber gloves.

THE SURGE AND THE LIFE OF A DEDICATED STROBISTO:  
They had a brief rebirth with the Strobists, an internet group who support frugal lighting.  Mostly,  a lot of reviews unfortunately most info was cut and paste.
  And so far off the truth it was a joke.

What appealed to them was it has true manual with four settings. 1/1, 1/2, /1/4, 1/16  but unfortunately Vivitar omitted the 1/8 power.   

Yes, they omitted 1/8 power and this set the Strobist World On Fire, with pages of diagrams, documentaries from electronic kit builders, distraught shooters exhibiting all kinds of hand wrenching, farting of nuclear proportions, gut-wrenching, colon-stretching gas pockets, letters and threats, dissatisfaction and dismay, a few building elaborate variable modules.  

What really appealed about the 285 was CHEAP, and they were very affordable till the rush took place and used prices shot up.  By the way we were building variable modules thirty years ago, no biggie.  I even had one laying in my kit : See pic.  I use it now as a variable on my reading lamp which is LED.

Guide numbers are truth, everything else is guano.  I don’t care what these reviewers tell you.  If the reviewer says its guide number is 120... stop reading, it’s another “cut and paster” arsehole looking for recognition of the fact he just learned how to turn a lamp on. Switch up - switch down!

Running this flash on AA batteries is a disaster for a pro. Too slow. Very slow. Incredibly slow. It is very slow on AA cells and wastes them pretty quick. Get the point!  

The damn thing is slow, about as slow as the passing lane of the Aldabra Islands Tortoise Race.   See PHOTO.

Meanwhile for those who shoot still-life teddy bears and flowers who don’t make real money doing weddings, sports and events can do with AA cells and not worry about it.  This flash needs a battery pack period.
  

THE WORST LEAKAGE ON ANY STROBE I HAVE EVER REPAIRED
And it has a bad reputation of battery leakage doing a lot of harm.  Why? Most of it coming from the cheap holders for the batteries, cheaper batteries used, the clips were from differing metal chemistries, and adding electricity, you will get exaggerated metal, corrosion.  
Off to the garbage, some I saved by ripping apart, removed all metal and converting them into external power supplies. Thus making direct connections to my power pack.  No metal, no conductivity, no corrosion!

Using a module cuts down on collective heat inside the flash cooling the unit better and doesn’t corrode. The module is screw locked in place, eliminating fallout and further corrosion.  1500-3000 shots on full to partial power should cover most jobs.  Am I being negative about the 283-285, no, just informative and realistic as I’m too old and experienced to get excited over something I’ve stared at for more than 3/4 of my life. 

I can still replace the foot with a metal one if we can find one. I can still make you a module!  My pack will bring it to life.  I can supply modules and packs.           NO REPAIRS, IF THE UNIT IS SHOT, DEAD IS DEAD, IT’S A FINAL KIND OF THING.


DUAL VIVITAR 285 COMBO   $250.00  LAST ONE  04/04/2018


This is a great combo for a backup setup, or when you don’t want, need or have to drag the heavy gear out for a quick shoot, or a shoot with the possibility of parts flying. This is in 98 percent condition, and thats not adding my two cents. Practically new.

Somewhere around Disney in Florida years ago there is a Vivitar 285 buried or under the swamp that fell off the mount of a biplane at 1000 feet that has never been found since I had my name and phone number stenciled on it with a reward.  

I have lost them on drag racing and stunts where that 400 dollar NIKON or CANON wasn’t going. Today it’s closer to 600.00

I smashed one by accident running from a news conflict I was covering when a Molotov Cocktail hit close to a Police Car I was behind, snapped it clear off the shoe, the camera was OK.

Moral of the story:   “Never buy cheap Duck Tape” 
Lesson One:  Never throw out these older mono-un-mono strobes, I make packs for them, most are A mode or manual and make great sacrifice and easy to wire. 

I’m retired  (January 1, 2018) so this kit is the last of the complete outfits for METZ and Vivitar I have left.  I’ll build from sctach for you if we find the right parts.  Oh the one on the right is a Wein
mount and voltage reducer ( about sixty in the stores)


VIVITAR UPGRADES - MOST MODELS    
Many of you wanted modules for Vivitar to use on a light stand with 8 ft cables. 
We make our own modules for Vivitars. 
They don’t break nor corrode like the others. 
This also includes cutting a door slit for the module, 18 gauge low resistance cable up to eight feet, and secure screwing the door shut. 

•  Cable and Labor $40.00 with your battery clip $50.00 if I supply the clip.
•  New Metal Foot Installed with Hot Shoe only with Black Box Order    20.00  as long as shoes available
•  New Metal Foot Installed with Hot Shoe only  without Black Box Order   3
0.00  as long as shoes available
•  Non-Coil Extensions    (eight feet long)    $40.00 includes shipping
If you supply a MB4 we will modify it to a Din connector for $10.00, no charge if ordered with a new Black Box or Tuxedo, at the same time and shipping would be free.



NO SUPPORT FOR QUANTUM

FLASHES and PACKS: 
About once a week I get asked “ Do I support the Quantum Flash series like the T2, T4, T4D, T5D's and Trios".  And the second question is, do I rebuild the Turbo 2+2 packs.  The answer is NO and my final answer NO!

I usually get the call after someone got a two hundred to four hundred dollar upgrade or repair bill from the new folks who bought Quantum. I’ d love to help them but. 

•  Simple...my battery packs will not work on them, thats reason enough.
•  They are capacitor driven and capable of 335 volts.  
•  They made their products totally reliant to function on their own ancillary products through the use of specialized cables, lots and lots of electronic components, secret assemblies, no schematics, whiz bang technology, blinking lights and turn signals and very few outside repair facilities so It’s called profit and makes big dollars.  
•  Then they sold out to 
ProMark Brands, in Bartlett, IL and most of their prices went up.  Repairs are expensive.
•  
Many who wind up with one needing overhaul, dump it on eBay because they can’t afford the repair.
•  To power these units you’ll need to get a Quantum Turbo, about $400 to 679.00 new and about the same used if you get a bad used one you thought you stole on eBay that needs repairs.

•  Thats the hidden costs of those things. One will not work without the other and now you have two expensive parts and if pack A gets used up during a wedding, you'll need a spare.  A Trio and two packs is about $2000 and no guarantees after you spend the money it will perform as expected.

•  I do not service any Quantum packs anymore either.  At one time I did. I used to re-battery them, tweaked the comparators and returned them to service.   There are just too many that are getting too old, too many versions, different boards, and some are beyond hope and really need the garbage can.  
•  Once in a while if you are nice I will re-battery a QB-1 or QB-2 but forewarned only with ZYLONS which were the great original factory battery.  No subs and they are not cheap. Today they use less capacity less expensive batteries which fail quick with lowered capacity.  I do it right or don’t do it at all.  B
ut I have made some lithium monsters.

•  Otherwise send the pack to the nice folks who bought Quantum and expect from about one to two hundred dollars for batteries and a new board if it needs one. With new batteries they will calibrate the pack, if the boards are still good and you will be putting them right on top of hot batteries which will kill them again. 

  

DIGITAL CAMERA BATTERY 

SPEED KILLS, KILLED THE COMPANY TOO

Those black and silver cases were  DCB's, beautiful, expensive and advertised as "the fastest battery pack in the world”.  True but fifty seconds later they became known as the shortest lived pack in the world when they blew the guts out of a bunch of about a 100 just released brand new Canon 580s and when the smoke cleared, that was the end of the DCB company and their product and a bunch of working Canons.  

It also showed a bad flaw in the 580 series one that it didn’t like accelerated packs, overheated and blew.

The sports shooters got blown away because a fellow sports shooter Rob Galbraith touted the program for his freebies.  This batch came to me when no one else wanted to tackle them. They were so hard to take apart we used a drill press and wood blocks to get the old swelled packs out of the cases.  

When we got them apart, we knew we were dead in the water. Couldn’t put anything back in due to swelling and corrosion. I believe these might have been from the vendor at Busch Gardens. The only outfit dumb enough to buy them and he is in my town. Thats 12,000 dollars of no good plus strobe that got blown.   And i could have supplied them for 2000 dollars and they would still be working today, twenty years later.

I get calls all the time because the company was located fifteen miles from me fortunately they died off.   They were dispatched to the aluminum pile, with the  only salvageable parts were the micro switches and  screws.  DCB of Trinity blamed the cable company, Paramount Cable, Bronx NY for putting too strong a capacitor in the cable which was their idea of how to step down 14.4 volts of hot Ni-MH and then accelerate it direct into the flash head capacitor claiming a full power burst in sub second interval.  Canon said, “ Not my problem, unauthorized usage with non Canon parts“   Years later, there  was still a blame game till Paramount sold and DCB bellied up.   Fortunately, the calls have died off and I sold off the aluminum, about a radiators worth at the scrap metal place, nothing else usable. The weird size batteries were useless, if not dead , fit nothing else.


ARMATARS  ARE DEAD

REALLY DEAD
If you buy an original and it’s dead I know of no one in the industry working on them.  If you are so enraptured by the round reflector shade buy one of the clone knockoffs from China so you look good and when it toilets buy another one.  Round shades were great when we had 21/4 square format,  slow ISO’s like Panatomic X, Plus X, and Verichrome and needed the sharp specular light to make them work. 

One guy luckily gets a shot with the round reflector and all the lemmings jump on the bandwagon with their gotta have lists.   Their first job with the harsh light blows out the highlights and trashes it.  I was friends with the Armato brothers on Long Island years ago and some of these strobes now have had five or six owners, mostly Strobists, who get really excited about them. (Makes them look professional, teddy bear photography)

Warning:  Capacitors especially the big dual stage ones in them can be shockingly dangerous (lethal) in the rain.   Again, there are no parts, no boards,  no tech support, most schematics lost,  and the newer equipment with higher clean ISO’s really filled the gap.   Their advantage was for a time period forty years ago with slow based film like Plus -X and VPS etc.   All that has changed in the market with digital. You will need a Quantum HV for the 300 to power it if the cable is right. If not stand back.


SUNPAK UPDATED

2017  CALL FIRST

422D - 433D SERIES:  These models performed well on the Black Box - No Problems with the 422D-433D - 120J, if they are still alive.  They can be used  either on a stand or on the camera when used in manual mode or/with “ Auto Thyristor Assist" if used on digital bodies.  

Their Low synch rates on voltage made them safe and a much better performer than their failure prone SunPak 383 which was a price promotional model. Cables are available. These work great and easily converted for slaves.  Do not buy a SunPak 383 It was very weak in its design, construction and longevity and as a competitor to the older Vivitars it sucked.  Fortunately it was very short lived and few or non around.

But many SunPAK’s can be found in pawn shops, the good part is you can steal them.  Bring batteries, and test them, Use the MG2 Cable.  look for corrosion.  Developed by one of the oldest flash importers, the SunPaks date back to 1963 when they were established in Saitama, Japan.  They were really popular in the analog generation.  Offer five dollars telling the guy they only work on film and film is dead.  He won’t know.  Check the battery compartment, usually thats killer one since they left the batteries in it. No I will not clean it for you. Cheaper to buy a Yong-Nuo or Neewer.

The 120J SERIES:  Is another fairly good performer, designed, styled after or copied from the Quantum “ “ series. Quantum's prices scared people so SunPak took the 400 series, stepped it to bare bulb and added a domed hood.  They are fine on stands and brackets and produce a specular light. The diffuser or modern frosted coffee can lid  elastic cord or/and velcro is the better way to go since it’s not bigger than the reflector.  Still usable till they fade out.

611-622 SERIES:  Another great legacy performer (the 611) that did well on the Black Box and I pushed this unit because of its power and reliability during it’s era.
A good one today will out perform almost any strobe made.

Problem was, it’s bigger than most cameras, heavier and very complex.  Next problem is they are basically non-repairable. Unfortunately, they made the obituary list, no longer sold other than a few lying around, few independents like me saved parts for them and no one in their right mind would work on them, so off to the trash heap.   Recently I took one apart for grins and surprise it had four (4) motherboards and more connections than an attorney for the mafia. No wonder no-one worked on them.

CAUTION:  There were a few of the 622s for sale going around and even some bases, thats the huge handle part which can be found but no heads, so don’t get trapped buying one without a working head.  Again they are not repairable, very complex to take apart with about five miles of wire and boards, not fun to work on,  so don’t ask me.  

522-544-555 SERIES: Recently I started getting requests for the 522 series. Now these units used a six battery setup in the head meaning a demand for 7.2 voltage and that allows me certain liberties in what I manufacture.  

I will be offering the Black Box with an appropriate voltage in NiMH with capacity exceeding commonly used AA and NiMH AA batteries.  Actually we are configuring 3800 NiMH 186 cells into two columns with a capacity of 7600 Milliamps which can exceed almost any other configuration out there.

WARNING:   An option I have seen might be a pack constructed from large Lithium-Ion being aware of the airlines reluctance to allow on board.   I am quite familiar with this since I wrote the article and I do not work in Lithium,  a lot more dangerous than you think.  
Just recently I got a call about a battery store who  found out what happens when they tried to solder Lithium.  You have to weld (we don’t solder packs, it drops them 20%) Lithium carefully.  It dropped the fire department on them, the fire was small but the fire department decided to inspect them,  and that caused severe financial damage     .
 LITHIUM - SEE TSA