The SIMPLE INTELLIGENT BRACKET
The NEW PERFECTION DOUBLE BRACKETS are for when you need more power, when you have wide angle flash shots, very tall or vertical shots with variable power. We've included a few ideas on the subject.
We see them most commonly used on Cobra headed Vivitar, Nikon, Canon, Metz, Luomo, Promaster and SunPak, but will work on all brands.
COMPLETE KIT
The kit includes parts as follows:
Black Cera-Kote Perfection Bracket (1)
Extender (1)
Custom thumbscrews (3 short, 1 long)
Rubber Anti-Slip Pads (3)
Washers and lock nuts, standard nuts. The screws, bolts and lock nuts are either chrome or stainless with knurled plastic ends. They are made in house.
The dull gray finish on the metal is Cera-Kote, same thing used on firearms for protection against the elements. It’s Made in the USA, from a local product in the raw which is galvanized, bright and with dangerously sharp edges. I cut myself first day out. We strip, grind, buff and refinish the bracket so you won't get cut.
Note: We do not supply the umbrella holder. We discovered most folks had a supply of these they liked and that would of raised the price for something they already have.
MOUNTING
HOTSHOE - For those 99% of strobes that come with a conventional hotshoe foot you can use a simple foot female from Flash Zebra part number 0126 which connects direct to a pocket wizard and similar receiver with a 1/8" monoral plug. Just use the supplied screws and rubber washers to assemble the female shoe to the bracket.…done
TABLETOP FOOT - Many strobes today come with internal receivers for DTTL setups and don't require anything other than the foot shaped device (sometimes call a tabletop) as supplied by Nikon Canon and others. See top photo, it's the thing you thought you didn't need you stuffed back in the strobe box.
VIVITAR
Any Vivitar of the 283/285 series can be adapted with a metal screw mount foot, shown below which we offer as an upgrade and eliminates the table top foot, the hotshoe foot and screws direct to the bracket. The Vivitar may be triggered by several methods. This is our most popular conversion.
The front holes on the bracket are for the transmitters like the R616, aka "Ghetto Poppers" Pocket Wizards, Radio Poppers, and Micro Sync. Anything with a ¼ x 20 screw hole and that places the sensors close to the flash.
Now we connect the foot to the receiver and you have several choices here. I would be remise if I did not tell you why we upgrade the Vivitar to the metal foot. The foot is the communication center for this beast. And it's got two major headaches. The ingrown type. The first weak part, is the foot itself, it was made to break before it rips the top of your camera off, that is good.
The problem is the slightest jar breaks it. It is too good and thats paramount to being bad. I have changed 100s of the plastic ones. I used to stock a large amount of them just for repairs. I sold them to a vendor.
I use the metal ones now exclusively since it's not on top of your camera anymore, it's on the bracket and the screw setup make it easy.
The second weak part of the Vivitar is the proprietary synch cable which absolutely sucks period. It is responsible for the strobes total inefficiency and misfires a good part of the time. The idiots made the spring internally of a metal conducive to corrosion and that creates failures.
Ever try to solder with a dirty tip? Similar exercise in frustration. If you are going to use this on a stand, get rid of this mess by one or two conversions I can do for you. Here are my suggestions to bullet proof the Vivitar. We do about ten to fifteen a week.
When we convert your VIVITARS, you no longer need a shoe for the PERFECTION bracket. The supplied kit and upgraded foot to the VIVITARS work great as a team and with the SP umbrella holder most of the guys never disassemble the rig, pop it off the lightstand, pull out the umbrella, use an army footlocker style box, mine is a metal file cabinet that looks alike a Halliburton, from Staples or Office Depot and a few pieces of foam for transport. Looks PRO and cheap to buy.
PLAN A
The simplest, smartest and cheapest conversion if you are using the metal foot (it has a PC terminal, see the picture) to get a PC on one end and a 1/8 jack on the other for your Pocket Wizard or other brand of trigger. Done. They are available at our friends at www. FLASHZEBRA.com
FLASH SYNCH CABLE:
Part number 0120. This cord has a male PC connector on one end and a mono miniphone plug (1/8" – 3.5mm) on the other. The cable is straight and approximately 15 inches (35cm) in total length. This cord can be used to connect a flash like the metal foot or other device that has a female PC connector to a Pocket Wizard, CyberSync or Elinchrom Sky-port. It is a functional replacement for the similar cord that comes packed with a Pocket Wizard or CyberSync. There is also a 5 meter version part number 0024 which allows distance between the flash and the trigger for critical placements in bad light situations.
PLAN B
Same as above with the Mini-Jack 1/8 hardwired direct into the foot with a cut made into the base of the new metal foot where it meets the base of the strobe. You now have a strobe with a simple connector that goes right into the R616 and similar low-cost triggers. Clean, no fuss, no muss, no extra crap to crap things up.
The end may be fitted with 1/8 male or female plugs. Most common sizes like 1/8", 1/4" available.
PLAN C
If we change the metal foot you get a perfectly good PC port. Heavy duty and you'll need a PC to PC connector to use with a PC equipped camera. That cord is available at Zebra Cable and allows a hot link camera to flash direct for precise work.
Part number 0032. www.FLASHZEBRA.com
PLAN D - Tell me what you need.
CIRCA 2011
At the 2009 PMA in the Canon booth, a celebrity name photographer was using 3 Canon 580 EXII's on two light stands with a soft box. You could do the same thing with three Vivitars and shoot through umbrellas.
He was doing modeling work using three strobes. Two strobes on one stand with a $200 bracket by you know who, and a single strobe on the other light stand. At current costs, this would amount to about 1700 dollars worth of gear. Using the PERFECTION bracket, Vivitars and a pair of shoot through umbrellas about $300.00 or less if you have access to eBay. Spend the saved 1400.00 on a new lens.
Canon was right up front pushing heavy on dual flash rigs. They make sense for the small fast portrait, model, individual and corporation shooter where dragging a studio with you won’t work long AC cords and climbing over things won't work. But you have walls as a giant reflector.
TIPS AND SITUATIONS
LARGE BRIDAL GROUPS
Two strobes allow the mass transfer of light in the wide such as when shooting LBG (Large Bridal Groups) either because of many in the group or extra large people and it’s getting more and more common. When you need light, you really need wide light and wide light is easy even with wide lenses and no distance to work from.
Just move both of the flashes 10 degrees off of the center. Voila! W.I.D.E. L.I.G.H.T. That avoids pictures with blasted centers and edge fall off from one single source. Place another double behind them and light the church up. Result finely balanced shots of the group and that $1,000,000 organ behind them.
STAIRCASE and SPLIT LEVEL
By using the tilt heads on the strobe you can have the same light source ( aka; basic lighting, there is only one sun) and again adjust vertical and one horizontal to cover almost every conceivable vertical or staircase situation.
NORMAL HEADS
Most people have heads that are about a foot wide and a foot high so why drag a ton of gear to shoot a simple portrait. Use one flash forward and the second bounced. A real photographer knows what he can do with light because of schooling. It's not in all the gimmicks out there.
DOUBLE DIPPING
Another interesting trick with the JPB is to set one flash straight ahead diffused and the other to bounce over the head of the subject. Thus no need for any Tupperware or other gizmo. One stand, one battery, if you are using the Black Box, two heads used directionally so it doesn't look like a grenade shot. Flat 360 degree light is boring.
SIDE POCKETS
You need modeling light or light that promotes depth. And the dual setup still uses less power than runaway Tupperware which defaults your flash to full and eventually runs down the battery and the flashtube producing uncontrolled flat lighting. Good luck both Canon and Nikon repair stations love you. We took a different approach. So we double the light, with two flashes on a Perfection Bracket. And this has advantages. I said double. Plenty of power and our simple rig reduces the profile, works and costs a lot less and allows you to shoot one head on and direct the second to bounce off a wall. Unlimited opportunities
I APOLOGIZE
To those selling overpriced and expensive brackets, sorry we had a better idea. To those with plastic and wheels, too many loose ends. To those with bent aluminum, how cheap can you go. For those screwing four units together, I wish you well. Our units are solid, limited production, and can't ever break. Yes this is sold with a lifetime guarantee against breakage. PERIOD! They are so strong I use a galvanized pair with a short chain as chocks for the wheels of my airplane.
SIMPLE, STRONG, SURVIVABLE
We start with stamped and cut 1/8" steel plates that are electro plated galvanized sheet which is too shiny, and too slick, the wrong color and with sharp stamped edges.
So we first use a strong solution of Hydrochloric acid to remove the galvanization, followed by a neutralizer and two baths.
The next step is to round the sharp edges on a 120 grit wheel. Then the "white" metal is then sand blasted for a rough no glare final finish.
It then goes through a wash, a neutral and into the nickel plating tank to insure a good surface that is rustproof.
The final step is a six hour electrostatic baking process. It now looks dull almost black grey and finished in Cera Coat, a Powder type coating used by the military.
There are several holes in the metal and several indents to the edges and the sides and they give you more room for those larger hands and access to the screw heads. Thats why we did not use angle iron like some 100 dollar brackets. You need to get your fingers in. The center section of the three is for the top of the lightstand. Use the little brass filet they provide with the suggested brands of umbrella stands. I do supply an extender for clearance if needed.
OPTIONS - DO IT YOURSELF
You can take the center hole and either drill it out to 3/8 or tap it to fit lightstands with 3/8 taps. The two outer holes are for the feet of the strobe as in the plastic table foot mounts that came with your Nikon or Canon, ProMaster or SunPak strobes. See PHOTO ONE:
WE LIKED BETTER HEAVIER UMBRELLA BRACKETS
No tools, no drilling, no brains needed. These are heavier than the iShoot shown directly above, and more suitable for larger umbrellas. The umbrella bracket and shoes for the VIVITAR 285's are not included. They come from the A-B-C crew. Adorama, B & H, and Calumet. The parts below are what I recommend after trying them all and going at a comparison of "price vs. usability".
ACCESSORIES AT B&H
SP-SYSTEMS SPB Multi Bracket Umbrella Holder
Cost: $16.50 at B&H.
NOTE: Now this comes with a metal shoe. Metal shoes can short strobes. Easily solved by using a piece of electrical tape over the center or you do not have to use this extra part at all.
I machine or you can use a round file to create a center slot so it will never happen. Otherwise this is a robust piece of gear and cheaper by 8.00 over the next competitor. If you can't machine it send it to me and I will.
Shoes
STROBOFRAME STAS "General Purpose" SHOE
Cost: $ 9.95 Vendor: B&H
Note: Comes with Screws
LEFT:
Samples of the screw kits that come with the bracket, picture may vary slightly as to the shape of the head. But we do supply the little parts and washers you need but not the umbrella holder. Available only in black any lengths with small cap heads.
I stock the heads, I have a 1000 pound press and screws in stainless any length in metric and standard for the really weird concoctions you might draft up.
NIKON - CANON
The bracket works perfectly with the NIKON SB and Canon SERIES with the added benefit of their internal transceivers and the free factory foot. See PHOTO ONE at the top of the page. So the cost of a Nikon or Canon is not that much as you eliminate the transceivers.
On the downside, nothing beats a set of the Wizards for distance and in high RF conditions....even the new Wizards which reportedly are having problems. Mans quest must be to take a good thing and screw it up. I use and like the Plus Two's.
Hopefully by now they get the bugs out BUT as far as I am concerned all this control crap is just another worry for the shooter. Trying to make a gizmo work in the middle of a wedding is sushi-side. Thats when you really fall on the knife.
It's slick, affordable and totally professional looking. You save on hot shoes and transceivers. For you Nikonians, we have a solution that really makes sense. Tag team two SB-600's or 700', 900's, as shown above and use the SB-800 for the trigger and mains. "Badda da Bing" as Tony would say.
You have the small table foot that comes with these strobes so little else is needed. Combined with the Nikons built in transceivers on the 600-800 series you have an easy job. CANON owners will have their own small foot or use a small shoe to support the flashes. The Black Box with dual DIN ports powers the little units beautifully.
They are inexpensive, only $45.00 which includes shipping, in the US via Priority Mail direct to you. Complete, the kit includes extender, custom thumbscrews and rubber anti-slips. It comes with all the additional hardware except the umbrella holder shown.We discovered most folks had a supply of these and that would of raised the price.
The screws, bolts and lock nuts are chrome or stainless with knurled plastic ends. For years all our accessories have been sold nearly at cost because we don't screw our customers!
Questions call me.... 
COMMENTS:
Hi Al,,,
Just a few words to express our complete satisfaction with this product. We were particularly impressed with the quality construction and level of detail you put into the final assembly. In functional terms, this bracket's design allows multiple configurations for strobes and Pocket Wizards that exceed our expectations. For the price, this product is an exceptional value! Well done.
A word on an SB-800 setup with Pocket Wizards: I've stumbled on this undocumented (by Nikon) feature with these units whereby only one Pocket Wizard is needed to trigger multiple SB-800 strobes. Simply set all strobes not connected to a Pocket Wizard to the SU-800 setting in their menus. The strobe triggered by the Pocket Wizard also sends out an IR signal. This signal is received by the IR sensors of any SB-800s set to 'SU-800', triggering their flash discharges. Thus only one Pocket Wizard needs to be mounted on the Double Bracket. Neat, eh?
Garry and Karri Fraser
Contre Jour Studios
201, 10030-106 Avenue
Grande Prairie, AB. T8V 1J7
(780) 402-9154
Raymond Forbes
7139 Hwy 85
Riverdale, GA 30274
My name is Raymond Forbes. I just received the 2 dual light brackets which I ordered a week or so ago. This note is to let you know how happy I am with my purchase. You have certainly exceeded my expectation. The brackets are solidly built and the extra connectors which you included are very much appreciated. I even think that I'll be able to mount 3 lights per bracket. Again, thank you very much.
One satisfied customer,Alan,