PROBLEMS - THERE WILL ALWAYS BE PROBLEMS
Everybody has problems.Working as a trouble shooter for a major corporation the most important thing I did on my job was looking for patterns of instability or recurring problems. I somehow found them and at the root, usually my friend the village idiot was in charge. Meet the village idiot.
Simply put, after finding the most common screw-ups and repetitions, I initiated charts, graphs, warning stickers and checklists to avoid those problems, which led to a new problem...people don't read, so we had to have workshops.
Basically the battery packs we build have been simplified in use and parts that can go wrong. In business parlance that means we try to sense the things that can go wrong and overkilled the product when we built them.
We know under conditions of stress and pressure something else will get you off track and that is usually completely unprovoked. This is very understandable. We know you never did anything wrong in your life. We wish you success, and do not wish to be part of your personal mayhem during a personal screw-up.
We are however, always here to help you and in the near future hope to open the Jacobs Clinic for the somewhat Photographically Incurable (JCPI) who do not plan, backup, or get it in writing.
GOOD PROCESS
THE CHARGER
When you first plug it in the wall not connected look for the green light. This tells you the wall socket you selected is correctly wired.
You can use either of the ports (called DINS). Both are OK for charging and the cable connects and fits DIN ports only one way. Look for the bump or key to align the cable and port properly. Now connect the cabe to the pack. Turn switch to on! This is a three stage Multi-mode automatic charger. The switch must be in the on position to charge at all times. The switch is there basically for field use while working.
If the battery is lower than 85% (+ or - 3%) the green light will go out and the red light will come on. The light will stay red for a few hours on high-speed charge to restore it to 85% capacity or better.At that time the battery charger will flip back to green for the slower completion of the charge, do a little de-sulphation and fill the battery to capacity. It is now in maintenance mode.
Just letting it go to green and shutting it off is a no-no. Leave it on the charger. It is like a dock for your cell phone. When not shooting, it has to be on the charger and the switch on, months at a time, no problem.
I RAN IT TILL IT DIED !
This is number two on the I didn't read the instructions hit parade. Our packs have a huge capacity, but there are limits. The average BLACK BOX using a SB-800 or a Canon 580EXii will achieve somewhere around 900 to 1100 full power shots, partial to squelch power, we don't know we got too tired shooting. Do not run it to dead. The Sealed Lead Acid battery power curve stays full and then drops fast. Thats why those expensive boxes put a lot of money into gauges that basically said good, good, good, good, drop dead and shut off. Impressive but not accurate nor a real guide. Very misleading.
PRO HINT:
I work on the card theory. When I put an 800 shot card in the digital and I know it will be a full pop day (long distance and full power) I set my mind to change packs when the shot card in the camera is full.
That told me 800-900 shots. All I do is keep track on the meter on the camera which on most brands is a count down.
See photo.
SAFETY DEVICE BUILT INTO CHARGER
When you exhaust the battery below say 5.8 volts, a safety device we built in the charger might refuse to charge the battery. Again, a really dead or sulfated battery because of not being charged properly, might make the charger think it is faulty and the chargers safety mechanism prevents recharge. An SLA battery is similar to the battery in your car.
Remember when your car battery was dead, you felt betrayed. They told you it was "maintenance free" which meant you never had to do anything. Wrong! It did not say it was water free. Adding water in their book was not considered maintenance, neither is cleaning terminals. In this case, you got stuck 3:00am in a snow storm, because, it was out of water or the terminals were corroded. Here in Florida, I curse the dealers who advertise cheap oil changes, sure they don't lube anymore and they don't check the battery, but give you a list for 400.00 worth of overpriced maintenance.
All the batteries we use are SEALED LEAD ACID. Similar to your car battery, except it gets no water since it is sealed. It is big and powerful in power yet small and compact. They are disposable in most Home Depots and Lowes battery dump bins right by the door. They are sealed and the acid is held in place by fiberglas matting and subsequently thats how they get their name, SEALED LEAD ACID.
If you killed it dead, you have two options, send it to me to restart it. No charge except postage. I will de-sulphate it and fully charge it back. Nine out of ten may be saved this way. These batteries have tremendous recharge capability, and in some instances easily saved. Thats why we use them, we pay more but they are worth it. Neglect and not following instructions kills them more than anything else.
SOME OF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE BLACK BOXES
EXPERTS ONLY
SCHUMACHER MC-1 Manual Charger
If you wish to step up a dead box you ran dry or repair it yourself. You can invest in a no limit trickle charger. It can sometimes bring back the dead. Around twenty something dollars at AUTO ZONE and on the web. About the same cost as sending it to me and back to you via postage and you get to keep it.
NOTHING OVER 1.5 AMPS - DO NOT SUBSTITUTE.
If you choose to pick one of these up, I will convert the end with the rings in the top picture to the DIN plug. Fantastic, now you can use it for both your cars especially during the winter months, boat kicker and start batteries, motorcycles infrequently used, and kids power cars.
This is a great off the shelf tool. Call me if you want more information on this device and you will appreciate having this around. It does both 6 and 12 volts and at one amp. I use it on trolling motors, batteries you send me that are dead, and emergency batteries and lights. I also use them on my dual super packs for HD location flash units.
WARNING - You see you have to remember to shut the MC-1 Off. (Fridge timers work best) For those with short memories, for a few dollars more here below is the deluxe automatic version.
SCHUMACHER® Battery Charger (SEM-1562A) (Better)
PRODUCT DETAILS
Automatically selects voltage
1.5 AMP charger/maintainer
Automatically switches from full charge to float mode
LED indicators
Reverse polarity protection
For 6 & 12 volt lead-acid batteries.
For a few dollars more, this unique automatic battery charger maintains both 6 and 12 volt batteries keeping them at full charge using float-mode monitoring. Perfect for charging small batteries. Great for maintaining small and large batteries kept in storage – motorcycles, classic cars, RVs, boats. • 1.5 amp charger and maintainer. • LEDs indicate: Charging, Charged and Trouble. • Automatically switches from Full Charge to Float-Mode Monitoring. • Quick-Disconnect Harness – Snap either connector into place in seconds – Use the 50 amp clamps or permanently attach the ring connectors…great for hard-to-reach motorcycle batteries. • Reverse-hookup protection.
VILLAGE IDIOT THINKING - RESULTS
CAUTION: Do not try to make it charge faster or attempt to hooking two packs together or anything else other than what I tell you to do. Here are actual photo of a batteries that were abused by those who used the time tested and unproven theory, "Oh just plug it in and see if it works".
Our friend, the village idiot is alive and well doing what he doesn't know a stinking thing about. Every day I get a email form someone who wants to plug into the ports, hook batteries so they charge and discharge at the same time, and they send pictures of cables that don't work thinking in 40 years I don't know whats out there.
Our cells are 6 volt cells and generally should never be hooked to a charger using more than 7.2-7.4 or so on fast charge. A charger should never exceed 1.25 of the capacity per hour. Fortunately our batteries and wiring are fireproof.
In the photo, our village idiot genius used the HumVee of chargers, only it was a 12 volt charger of six amps and not a six volt of 1.5 amps. He learned the hard way batteries should be kept vertical during storage or charging and never should the voltage be exceeded.
The dark discoloration on the top photo is acid fume from eating the container it was in when it boiled over. Crank your spa up to 140 degrees and cook yourself. In our quest to outthink potential idiots I realized there is no end to things that people can and will do, all I can do is to strive to do it safer by educating my customers. No customers, friends or neighbors were injured fortunately, but the stink was unbearable like the mens room at Sloppy Joe's in Key West. That was Hemingway's old haunt, I still think he's in there under a table somewhere.
TSA TRAVEL, BATTERY TIPS
AA CELLS
Do not under any circumstance store batteries in the fridge. This is an old wives tail involving ALKALINE cells and the old EverReady 497 which almost killed me. Newer rechargeables are steel, not stainless and will rust.
Good AA cell chargers are not the fastest chargers. They are battery killers. You get fast charges and faster replacements. In the case of RAY-O-DEATH they started fires and were taken off the market.
Don't mix Ni-MH or Ni Cad rechargeable cells that are not from the: Same brand, same batch, same size or capacity. Mixing cells of different capacities can cause permanent damage to the weakest one in the set making the whole set inoperative. A string of batteries is as powerful as it's weakest link.
Buy batteries from reputable sources and only use batteries approved for your device, avoid counterfeits! A counterfeit battery is more likely to cause a fire in your equipment costing you more in the long run, and compromising safety. Look for the mark of an independent testing or standards organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC).
Do not carry recalled or damaged batteries on aircraft. Check battery recall information at the manufacturer's website, or at the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Only charge batteries which you are sure are rechargeable! Non-rechargeable batteries are not designed for recharging, and become hazardous if placed in a battery charger. A non-rechargeable battery placed in a charger may overheat or cause damage later. Only use a charger compatible with your rechargeable battery, don’t mix and match!
TSA and SLA CELLS: OUR BATTERIES
Granted most folks think TSA stands for "Tough Sh!T America" but rules are rules and enough laptops and other Lithium devices have blown up to make me side with them. That could be yours or my ass next to some moron with a possible Lithium meltdown. My SLA batteries may be carried in either the cabin or checked. No problem, not on the list.
Our batteries, though tilt-safe, should still be charged in a vertical position. Never store these batteries face down or on it's side for any length of time like thirty days. Never charge any (the) battery in a closed box, it needs to vent. All batteries vent, OXY and HYD are bi-products of charging and discharging. OXY and HYD are what power the Shuttle. The use of Pelican cases is Ok for travel, make sure the vent is open for pressure to change.
Use the chargers direct to the wall, preferably no strips or APC's with joules or any other interference between the circuit and the charger. Use the red caps on the airlines or storage while traveling as an additional safety precaution. The TSA will go easier on you (if they are not aware my batteries), SLA's are not under scrutiny.
Keep batteries (other types) and equipment with you, or in carry-on baggage - not in your checked baggage! In the cabin, flight crew can better monitor conditions, and have access to the batteries or device if a fire does occur. (Lithiums are the culprit)
Nonspillable Wet Cell Equipment: Containing nonspillable wet cell batteries (gel cell or absorbent glass mat) can be carried as cargo. Or may be carried in Camera Bags - The equipment with the battery installed must be protected from short circuit and securely packaged. The package must be marked "Nonspillable" or "Nonspillable Battery."
Use the red caps provided with the Black Box or Tuxedo. Thats why they are there. We have a special kit labeled "Idiot TSA Kit" for three dollars plus 1.25 postage which includes two caps for those that threw their red caps away.
LITHIUM SMALLER BATTERIES LIKE BP-511
If original packaging is not available for spare batteries, effectively insulate battery terminals by isolating the batteries from contact with other batteries and metal. Good electrical tape over the contacts. Cheap electrical tape leaves residue. Do not permit a loose battery to come in contact with metal objects, such as coins, keys, or jewelry.
Place each battery in its own protective case, plastic bag, or package, or place tape across the battery's contacts to isolate terminals. Isolating terminals prevents short-circuiting.
Take steps to prevent crushing, puncturing, or putting a high degree of pressure on the battery, as this can cause an internal short-circuit, resulting in overheating.
If you must carry a battery-powered device in any baggage, package it to prevent inadvertent activation. For instance, you should pack a cordless power tool in a protective case, with a trigger lock engaged. If there is an on-off switch or a safety switch, tape it in the "off" position.
DIRTY TERMINALS
I get a pack back sometimes with erratic behavior. I have removed coca cola from the insides and water sometimes. But slow operation can be from the cable from the battery to the module that goes in the flash. That brown to red color is heat. Burning the heck out of your flash shooting at extreme settings is one thing. We all get behind the ball shooting and try to catch up usually at the expense of our own gear.
High power and fast pops with
out cooling the flash is common to sport shooters, paparazzi, and nervous wedding shooters, I call it shellac syndrome.
Most manufacturers strobes are not made for abnormal usage. Quantum and other board makers sometimes spray the internal parts of their boards and products to weatherproof and seal the metal stripes.
The shellac is used to insulate and prevent moisture damage. The shellac settles on the terminals making them brown. It could also be the capacitor is getting so hot, you are about to experience a meltdown. Some are covered with paper as an insulator and then wrapped in shellac.
Ever try to solder with a dirty solder iron tip. It don't work, does it , thats why you clean the tips. What can occur is "fast shorting" contacts that open and close rapidly. Thats what I think may of been the problem with the 580's when they first came out. Weak contacts internally.
Several ways to clean, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, not rubbing alcohol. A grade or percentage of 93 or better. Also a soft eraser done away from your gear and lenses, and a vacuum cleaner running while you do it to prevent any abrasive from going internal especially on camera contacts. When I repaired cameras, I had a vacuum table to keep particulate in place.
Isopropyl alcohol is readily available at the drug store. It is used widely as a solvent and as a cleaning fluid, especially for dissolving lipophilic contaminants such as oil. I use LKG 99.6 percent. I also use a dremel with small wire and eraser tips to polish terminals when really bad.
BE AWARE:
The modules can also be inserted wrong as in backward. Some of the modules are easily confused. In that case you can short the strobe or simply most newer ones have protection and don't function. On this site there are sections on specific cables with specific instructions under flash units and cables.
Another possibility occurring with the cables is stretching. Many claim they don't stretch the cables.
Well after 
taking things with a few grains of salt, two shots of Tequila, and some lime juice I see things differently.
This shot taken at a local Lambada Dance contest got the photographer who was so into the music he just grabbed this incredibly gorgeous young lady and almost won first prize taking his own portrait at the same time.
I do have some great guys and gals using the black box. And we'll put up any decent shot you send us using black boxes providing I don't get any letters from the Religionistos. And even then I'll put them up.
Under careful scrutiny I did notice he is still using the older RCA jack which we have upgraded free for years during the time of sale of the Black Box. By simply sending them to me with fifteen dollars enclosed, we will upgrade the cable to DIN, clean the terminals and ports and send it back to you. Thats another weak link we have over the year attended to. See Cables
3) We have experienced a few failures with the DIN plug by the retainer screws working loose. from time to time tighten them - Remove one screw at a time, put clear nail polish on the threads and re-insert. From 2009-2011, I now torque them down, we use a different series of shrink tubing, and Blue Lock-tite the two screws. Send you cable in and we'll upgrade it for free, just enclose $5.00 for return high speed priority mail service.
The last thing about cables is old age. Sometimes we rebuild an older Quantum Cable no longer being used. We can do that for the Vivitar or make you a great extension for a two cable rig. Only if I deem the cable is OK, will I update it. Cables can corrode internally and the copper has turned green or the rubber has disintergrated and literally falls off. Unseen breaks and we run contiuity checks. Anything other than 000 perfect and we dump them.
IT'S THE FLASH - CONNECTING IT WRONG
No matter what I say or print on instructions, people just don't like to read. There is nothing more I can do about it except if you do not understand something, call me. My numbers are on the page "contact me" and most information on how to insert the module is under flash and cables. You can do damage "just fooling around".
Not as often, we will experience a flash failure. KAA-KAA, the ancient God of bad luck rears it's smiling and ugly head. Understand please, most of the flashes we provide cables for are made by the manufacturer to suit his camera line.
Though they may be marked PRO or HD or whatever, it does not imply these were designed for extreme hard use. They were designed to operate at slow speeds, no heat buildup, subsequent fast flash pictures at partial slow settings, not at high repetitive speeds, lots of cool downs and infrequent use. Sometimes they need to be rebooted.
You may try the following; Reset the flash to it's default settings. It's like rebooting a computer. Get out the instruction book. You might try turning the flash off and restarting it with the mode and on button pressed at the same time. And some flashes have to be turned on after the camera to handshake.
Loose cables can occur at any time and nine times out of ten it's when you about to take "The Shot Of The Year". Thats another reason why we eliminated the RCA jack they pulled out, locked on too tight and could not be removed, or a fan of the blades fell off and shorted the cable. In our product we use locking DIN plugs, they are externally protected, all grounding is internal, where it should be.
Use the Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the flash internal contacts and the shoe of the flash where it makes contact on the prism. If you do use AA cells moisten a piece of paper towel with ISOPROPYL and wipe the batteries top and bottom to remove finger prints and oil residue.