USING FLASH - LIGHT and MODES

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LESSON ONE - DEFINITIONS
 


LEARN THIS - THERE IS A LOT OF DATA HERE IN DEFINITIONS


Light from any source, even a Zippo Cigarette lighter unit has measurable light values. In the following six lessons we will try to explain things and we will work with to help you think and start to work with light better. We will be using simple techniques to make the learning process easier.

ARTIFICIAL LIGHT - OR MAN MADE LIGHT

If it plugs in the wall uses batteries or a portable pack, it is artificial light. It may be:


  •  Halogen,
  •  Tungsten,
  •  Fluorescent
  •  LED's

  •  Flash or Strobe 


SUN - LIGHT - THE HIGHER POWER LIGHT COMPANY
  •  Bright Sunlight
  •  Shady Days
  •  Environmentally challenged days.  (Fog, smog, volcanos)


LIGHT QUALITIES
This light has three qualities or dimensions that may be adjusted. We manipulate it to make it more flattering to the person or object we are shooting.  Photography is the complete understanding of this light and how we may best use it. Here are the three ways that light effects the subject:

  •  The direction to the subject.
  •  The quality of the light, hard or soft.
  •  The amount of light at the source that is measured. 


PORTRAITURE LIGHTING 
The position of lights to the subject is crucial to good modeling, flattering the subject and invoking or creating drama into a picture.  Good light sets moods, hides flaws and increases viewer time on the subject.  The three main lights in Portraiture are the:
  •  The KEY LIGHT or mains, emulates SUNLIGHT on the subject.
  •  FILL LIGHT balances the KEY LIGHT and eliminates shadows and some contrast. 
  •  BACK, HAIR, RIM accentuate the background for separation, and definition.  

POINTS OF LIGHT
Buying portable lighting can be a little intimidating. Because people shop by name, brand, model and looks.  Yes looks, I have seen it and heard it all across the counter. All of the above is wrong.
The correct answer is to buy for what your needs are.

Because what you need to 
buy is what you need for your particular type of shooting first, then comes the other considerations like who, what, why, and how much.  Much of it of course depends on your budget and the model camera you bought and the purpose for what it is intended.
 


Most point-and-shoot and many SLR basic cameras have built-in flash.
 The problem is that they are limited in range and tend to top out at about 12 feet.
If you are serious, you are looking for a step up model that adapts to your camera and integrates with it. 

And that can be the manufacturers next step to rid you of some money. Many of the flashes fit into the 200 dollar range and the pro models are in the 400 dollar range.
The add-on flash is the second item someone usually buys after a camera purchase. The third is a longer lens. It can be an expensive and complex smaller flash unit that slides into a hot shoe on top of the camera that affords more light.  With an extension cable it may be located off the camera on a bracket. 

The higher priced units that totally integrate with the camera are more powerful and can reach out to 60-70 feet with moderate ISO ratings.  And some models may not work with some models of the camera you have. The photo industry is similar to the car industry. The car manufacturers used to come out with a new model every five, six years and they were profitable. Now it's new models every year and soon they will run out of names to call those things. As with most of them I see at a traffic light, they are all starting to look the same and the emblems are smaller making it harder to tell who made it.
 
 

FLASH MODES

Most add on flashes of decent quality have modes or Pre-sets usually coded by letters or secret symbols. In you built in flash you had few choices to make.

 

Here are the most common deeply simplified.  

We are using Nikon's so we have a new situation, we have modes on the camera for scene settings and modes on the flash for performance settings. I wish they would throw them in the commode mode. Here is where most confusion takes place.

The higher end flashes have more modes they can fire in.  

The higher end cameras have more modes they can record in.  

Fortunately the right mating of the camera and flash will have them talking to each other, if you are lucky.


(A)  Simple Non-TTl Mode

The Nikons, Canon, and others all have an A mode. It's the oldest and most primal mode set easily on the menu on the flash. 

This mode sets the flash to see the reflected light from the subject and "squelches" or cuts it off when the exposure is correct. In this mode you enter the the F/stop manually and the damn thing works, always has.

 

(AA) Mode, Auto -Aperture mode, same flash, extra features.

The improvement to the A mode came about with more information coming from the camera via those little contacts in the hotshoe. Now it reads the aperture and the ASA/ISO, and initiates a pre-flash to verify and also to set the white balance. 

It then squelches the power giving you the correct exposure based on distance from the flash to the subject. Sometimes.


(M) Manual Mode - By setting the aperture and the flash output level, you can manually set the exposure and the distance to the subject manually.


(AUTO-FP) High Speed Synch-Auto FP High Speed Sync is a flash mode used for fill-flash photography under brightly lit conditions. It will fill in and open up shadowed areas in order to portray the greatest detail in subjects. 

It's also ideal when using wide aperture lenses, because it allows fast shutter speeds and it is often used for action-stopping sports photography. And for portraits, you can open up your lenses to their full aperture in order to isolate your subject against a blurred background without overexposing the image.


(TTL) Dedicated units are proprietary for a brands and sometimes specific models of camera. Some measure the reflected light right off the film plane itself and squelches the unit when correct exposure is achieved.  

(TTL-BL) NIKONS Mode for Balanced FILL
OK, fill light is confusing. Fill light is used to counteract a strong light source with another light source. 

Nikon's i-TTL Balanced Fill-Flash automatically balances the output of the Nikon Speedlight and the scene's ambient light.  

Immediately before the main flash goes off, the Speedlight fires a series of monitor pre-flashes, which convey Information about the scene's lighting to the camera. Combined with information from the camera's, the information is analyzed, the flash output adjusted to match  the scene's ambient light

  • COMMANDER MODE:

  • Many of the newer units can talk to each other allowing multiple portable flashes to be used in unison. The more sophisticated the flash the more expensive. 


SO THAT YOU FEEL CONFIDENT
Here is one page from the Nikon SB-900 manual explaining their modes. Close to the 800's procedures and this is why they come with a 100 page book.
i-TTL Mode

The camera controls the SB SB-900’s flash output level by measuring the light

reflected from the subject when the SB-900 fires a series of monitor pre-flashes.

Auto-Aperture flash mode 

The SB-900 controls the flash output level by measuring the flash illumination reflected

back from the subject using the sensor for Non-TTL auto flash and combining this with

information from the camera, such as the ISO sensitivity and the aperture setting.

Non-TTL Auto flash mode 

The SB-900 controls the flash output level by measuring the flash illumination

reflected back from the subject using the sensor for Non-TTL auto flash.

Distance Priority manual flash mode 

If you preset the aperture and the distance to the subject, the SB SB-900 will

automatically take control of correct light output.

Manual flash mode 

By setting the aperture and the flash output level, you can manually set the

exposure and the distance to the subject.

Repeating flash mode 

The SB-900 fires repeatedly to create stroboscopic multiple-exposure effects. This

operation is useful when shooting fast-moving subjects.

Switching illumination pattern 

You can select one of three types of illumination pattern (standard, center-weighted

and even) in accordance with your objective.

Bounce flash 

By tilting or rotating the flash head, you can bounce the light off a ceiling or wall to

make use of reflected light.

Close-up flash photography 

Close up flash photography can be achieved with use of the built-in wide-flash

adapter and the flash head tilted down.

Using color filters 

You can compensate for the color of a light source or create interesting effects by

changing the light from the filters to a different color.

Flash output level compensation/Exposure compensation 

Flash output level compensation is performed by modifying the flash output level for

the flash illuminated subject only. Exposure compensation is performed by intentionally

modifying the correct exposure to modify both the subject and background exposure.


Only 99 pages to go.


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