SUNPAK UPDATED 4 - 2012
LEGACY UNITS
SunPak 422D - 433D
They perform well on the Black Box - No Problems with the 422D-433D series either on a stand or on the camera when used manual mode with "Auto Thyristor Assist" if used on digital bodies.
Their Low synch rates on voltage makes them safe and a much better performer than their failure prone 383 which was short-lived. Cables readily available. These work great and easily converted for slaves.
Use the MG2 Cable. SunPak's have a unique setup for their AC use and actually use five volts in the MG2 module by way of a medium size resistor not found on most of the other cables.
Developed by one of the oldest flash importers, the SunPaks date back to 1963 when they were established in Saitama, Japan.
SunPak 622-622 PRO (NOW DISCONTINUED)
Another great legacy performer that did well on the Black Box and I pushed this unit because of its power and reliability. Problem was, it's bigger than most cameras. Unfortunately they made the obituary list and no longer sold. There are a few for sale going around and even some bases, the huge handle part can be found but no heads, so don't get trapped buying one.
If you have one and it still works the 611 with the right cable used off camera is OK with a warning. That puppy is over 200 volts and not safe direct on the newer cameras. You will need a optical sensor rig, do not try a Pocket Wizard, and optical sensor rig is safer.
DO NOT screw with the WEINs, I am not fond of them. You will toast one or the other. Also you will find out the synch socket is polarized, works one way. It has it's nerdism's. The cable for the 611 is the Quantum MC.
They are still available new, but missing the heads makes them useless and many trips to the pawn shops or used store for parts. Repairs would be off the planet because of the complexity of the five internal boards and at least two miles of wire. I have taken these apart. Scary. They are a manufacturer only repair if there was a repair place that is really there. There is no real SunpaK repair facility I would use. The correct cable for the 622 is the Quantum MH.
SunPak 120J
The 120J is another fairly good performer, designed, styled after or copied from the Quantum "T" series. Quantum's prices scared people so SunPak took the 400 series, stepped it to bare bulb and added a domed hood. They are fine on stands and brackets and produce a specular light. The diffuser or modern frosted coffee can lid style is the way to go since it's not bigger than the reflector. Can't find the plastic dome? Make one easy enough. A milk container, scissors, and for pieces of small velcro. People think they are cool, old thinking today.
SunPak 522-544-555
In addition to the Metz line of handle mounts, very few SunPak 522-544-555's came in, actually three the whole year. The 522 is VERY HIGH VOLTAGE on synch so since they use the same components as the Metz 45, there isn't enough market for me to keep fresh product on hand. When you have to buy 1000's of dollars worth of chargers and batteries to support three a year, you drop it. I did! Only the 555 has a lower sync voltage safe to use on newer cameras.
SunPak 383 WARNING and AVOID - (The worst small strobe on the market)
This is a RED TAG. SunPak Strobes, specifically the series 383 are marked "Heavy Duty" use. Just not true, in the past these units have exhibited two problems. They will overheat, and they will short. Period, end of sentence and I don't care what the guy tells you on eBay or Strobist. I used to fix these critters. I have seen many of them do this. Use them very cautiously, let them stay cool, and don't push them to excess. Let them cool after ten shots or so for a minute, or ignore them altogether.
Also their battery compartment uses two changeovers and long wire springs for contacts. There is not a lot of clearance inside the battery box with the floating coils. It's main advantage was the swivel head which on our dual bracket setup means nothing. Any contact between two of these springs will toast the unit so it is recommended you use the Quantum module rather than build one yourself like Mr. Stoooopid!. The 383 was brought out as a competitor to the Vivitar 283/285 series and never really matched up to it. They were discontinued just like Kelsey's Balls
MR. STOOOOPID:
When a homebuilder ten years ago (I will not print his name although he called me out and to this day I think he's an a-hole) copying one of my older packs emailed me, I was kind, informative and warned him about this overheat and short problem in an email, and the five volt over-resistor and Voila!
I told him, he ignored me, and found out his home brew module made Sushi of the 383's innards. Well maybe French Toast is a better metaphor. Thats why I have a section on my mail after TRASH called IDIOTS.
Then the bastard blasted me on a forum for his screwup, so I did what anyone would do, I posted his eMails... where I had warned him about proceeding his way. The other guys on the forum handled it for me. They turned him into Sushi, so bad, he left the forum. The 383 had too many flaws and was short lived. That's why they dumped it. Get a 422D-433D-444 series, much better made and more power and features.
CONS:
The most notable downfalls on these 400 series robust strobes are the slider switches getting corroded and when you use rechargeables and they get hot, the temp change produces moisture and that starts the process. When these were made twenty years ago there were only Ni-Cads and they do not hit the 130 degree threshold of Ni-MH.