FLASH CABLES
This section is devoted to enhancing your understanding of why I do things a certain way. It contains warnings and upgrades, manufacturer changes and odd things we have encountered. Don't even order a box till you understand the ramifications. I will gladly call you and discuss it with you if it is not clear. They tell me I'm the only one in the industry to do this. That's cool, I hate typing.....

CANONIZATION, in particular the CANON MB5 - 580 USERS and the CANON 580EXII
Quantum announces a Locking Plate for the MB5 cable when used with a Canon 580. It's small, ingenious and it works. Best part is Quantum will send you one free. Obviously they felt the MB5 door was not as secure just using Velcro, as it should be, and they corrected it.

Later kits of the MB5 come with the a locking adapter plate for the 580 model. All the info is on the www.qtm.com   website under NEW PRODUCTS. It does not need the door to be closed, it is held in place with a small piece of Velcro furnished with the kit. They should be commended for the follow up and the simple solution to the loose module problem. Again, if you have purchased a Module MB5 that did not include a locking plate for the Canon 580EX flash, use the order form on their website. Mine came in ten days. Above is the picture posted on the Quantum website. This is shown as a public announcement.

Basically it works like this. Place the module in the 580. Press down, slide clip in place, use the supplied Velcro to secure door, voila! Simple doesn't hurt the flash with over power and allows you to use batteries for backup if needed. Actually a spare Tuxedo is a smarter way to go. Actually after I studied it, I liked their idea and saw two other advantages.

* It locks the cable in place with nothing permanent and no sharp points like on the Vivitar module. In addition no stress is put on the AC port which accelerated units use and damage is easily traceable there should you get a runaway capacitor or surge blow-out.

* Again, It allows the Canon to safely run cooler. The 580 stuffs a lot of electronics into a small package and they are not exempt from over zealous use and overheating. very common on Canon.

The 580EXII is a Bird of Another Feather.
It uses the MB2 which is a locking module from the past brought back for the battery layout of the EXII. It is identical in spirit to the locking module of the Vivitar and fits quite a few models however it can be installed wrong, very wrong. please take a careful look at the photo shown and it was provided for me by Bruce Ward, to whom I thank profusely. The shoe of the strobe is on the left and the tiny X shown in red is facing forward or to the subject.   Like I said this module can be installed three out of four times wrong.

OPEN DOOR POLICY:
For those who have a problem with doors open. I accept the fact there are those who refrain from jaywalking, won't step on a crack in the pavement and never walk under ladders.

They probably spend half their life cleaning lenses, and constantly charging their batteries. From my sordid life as a street shooter and wedding photographer, I see things as tools to be used in the best possible way. I don't mind the door open.

If it gives me better performance, less electronics better heat dissipation, and components that are stressed and ultimately can fail. And that's my opinion. I get paid for pictures not door framing.

I cannot believe those who make an issue of this except it's their quirk. They can't stand the door open. OK, go get a TURBO, still screw with four NiMH and have half the flashes. Plus, the possibility of an overheated unit.

Or suffer with the door slightly ajar which can only help to dissipate heat. HEAT is the number one killer of strobes caused by too rapid shooting exacerbated by over clocking with transformers or external capacitors. In addition, other problems with strobes are cranial-rectal dyslexia occurs causing some users to plug something into something they shouldn't, or simply bad luck drops in, and the unit falls off a table.

Raindance
So the guy says to the psychiatrist "every time I take my flash out in the rain it gets wet". The shrink says " Only shoot on sunny days". Flashes are not waterproof neither are battery packs especially those with large amounts of electronics. If you have one of those accelerated units costing 500 dollars getting drenched with all that electronics in it, be cautious that's 330 volts of prime time. If you are shooting in a down pour, whether the door is open or closed won't mean a thing, you should have it wrapped in a zip lock, saran wrap or if the rain is that bad get your butt inside because that where everyone else will be. The larger Zip Locks can hold a flash and camera and cut a hole for the lens shade and clear filter, secure with a rubber band.

CANON 420 - 430 EX Users
When you order the cable from B&H we have noticed (thanks to our customers and the great communication we have with them) that the cable shipped for the 420EX is sometimes wired wrong. Simply put, the red dot at the bottom is correct but the black negative cable is in the wrong position. When you send me the cable for the DIN upgrade we'll fix that too at no charge. We came across two so far. Some 420EX and probably some 430 EX have been shipped with the black negative to the right of the red dot. It should be to the left. Just unscrew and reverse. For your own safety send me a couple shots of the battery chamber and the module so I can compare them. There are differences in the configuration and sometimes we have had to alter the configuration requiring nothing more than a Phillip's screwdriver. It has to do with the screw head being long enough to reach the contact and the correct placement. Some units came in reversed. Must of been a long day at the plant. Or a mis-marked box. Let me figure it out. The cable generally is correct when the (+) is in the lower left. WARNING: If you don't know send me the cable and flash, that's better then sending it to Canon for a repair. That's it for CANON.

NIKON - SB-800, SB-600
Any strobe is especially susceptible to heat damage when subjected by those who jack the Nikon SB-800 with five Kodak's and an accelerated flash battery. NiMH produce extreme heat, up to 130 degrees when over accelerated. Add an external 330 volt capacitor to four or five AA cells on the Nikon SB-800 and you will have hot NiMH enough to burn hands and carpet when you drop them and in some cases melt nylon carpet. Thus the slight edge the unit has with no hot batteries internally and the door off for cooling is the better way to go. The urge to shoot rapidly, too rapidly and not give the strobe tube a chance to cool is still the worst offender.

For clarity we do supply a cable from the charger which goes in the wall to the battery pack to charge the unit. In fact when the pack is not on the job shooting, it should stay on the charger.   We do not supply the cable from the power pack to the flash. That is furnished by your local camera store, B&H in NYC and drop shipped to me if you wish for a critical upgrade.

SB-600: MOST STANDUP NIKON FLASHES are very easy to use with the Q cable MKZ3. Especially the very popular Nikon SB-800. The oddball is the 600 series which requires two cables from Quantum, I'll gladly DIN the cable and solder the two together into one cable. We have had problems with the orientation. People can't figure how it works. SO HERE IS THE PHOTO of the correct positioning if I maintain the integrity of what Quantum had in mind when they reversed the rules of logic and made BLACK the positive. If I do your cable follow the photo when you get it. It is number seven in the Kama Sutra. In addition you have to press the two modules down into place as shown and then use the supplied clip as oriented to lock in place.

SPADES A SPADE: By the way, it's not a reduced version of the 800 as some buyers will testify. It's a less expensive CHINESE off shore price-point option made for the a) amateur entry level buyer b) those delving into multiple flash options c) intelligent folks who carry a backup. It does the job well. I love Nikon and the rumor mill makes me laugh but I still tell things as they are.

I recommend the SB-800 for the prosumer as the 100 dollar difference isn't that tough a mountain to climb. You'll get it back when you sell it. But the 600 is a viable lower cost alternative and in a pinch is the perfect backup.

For the Nikon SB-800 remove the door and place the MKZ3 module in place lock the retaining screw, connect to the battery pack and get to work. That's all folks. Takes eight seconds. On the SB-600 place the modules as the picture show and use the supplied clip as needed. The Canon strobes (580EX) are virtually identical. Total time about ten seconds.

NEW! SUNPAK 522, 544, 555, 611, 622, METZ 45 CT-CL Series added in cable availability.
Read article carefully below. A few of the above units require the 9 Volt setup. WARNING: SOME SUNPAKS especially the series 383 are marked "Heavy Duty" Use. Just not true, in the past these units have exhibited two problems. They will overheat, so use them very cautiously and don't push them to excess, let them cool after ten shots or so for a minute. Also their battery compartment uses two changeovers and wire springs for contacts. The 383 was brought out as a cheap competitor to the Vivitar 283/285 series and never really matched up to it. Any contact between two of these springs will toast the unit so it is recommended you use the Quantum module rather than build one yourself like the fellow did who didn't listen to me and toasted his. Sayonara Dude!

Some of the 400 series are over volted. You must keep the batteries ends separated so the coil springs do not make contact. This is not a condemnation of the SunPaks, just don't fall for the hype. Also do not believe they are repairable strobes. They are "use and pitch" as Sunpak service ranks with some of the worst in the business.

I like the 500 and 600 series, albeit on stands. They are fairly robust but on the 522,544,555 check the sync voltage. Use them on stands with "Ghetto" transmitters. Those are the inexpensive transmitters on eBay from CHINA such as the R616.

WE DO NOT DO QUANTUM'S:
We do not power Quantum T2's, T4D's, nor T5D's. They are accelerated units requiring very proprietary packs to make them perform. I also suggest the 2+2 Quantum Turbo as the older Sealed Lead Acid Turbos really will leave you stranded in terms of numbers. Price range for these Quantum 2x2's is usually around 450.00 to 480.00. The newer T series are 600-700.00 US. Repairs are not cheap on these units. Some costing more than 75% of a new strobe.

USED QUANTUM PACKS:
All USED Turbo Quantum's are not the same. Especially those that look used. Be cautious when an ad on the web say's "no charger, could not test", or some other disclaimer. Especially when they have been rebuilt by someone other than Quantum. Quantum used at one time a very proprietary battery with true Gel qualities made by Sonnenshine. Sonnenshine has literally vanished off the market because of the competition from the Chinese who make the battery from glass-mat instead of gel. The PowerSonics sell for a third of the German battery. To be competitive I had to switch too. Some of the Sonnenshine may be at the end of their unused life-cycles, as in the phrase shelf-dead.

Turbos have internal adjustment pots which have to be calibrated occasionally so the charger battery and output are within specifications for correct performance. Some of the "rebuilders" aka eBay simply threw a battery in the box. Now Quantum is replacing all units with Powersonic 832's because of availability. They will be OK as long as they are calibrated by Quantum when they do your rebuild. ( Free Plug) There is an alternative, go to the links page.

Another reason for the PowerSonics is "WEIGHT and FREIGHT". To get a price you order a pallet, to make a profit you order a couple pallets because 1000's of pounds and several thousand dollars might get you “free freight”. Today, you have to order two or three thousand dollars or you are a retail account. Again simple math and your checkbook determines what you buy or support.

Simple Policy:
We operate using Quantum cables called specifically the "M" and some K series. Bantam Series Cables. We have to modify those. Turbo cables make excellent extensions. The "M" cables are easily available from the very reliable B&H, Adorama or any good pro quality camera store.

The packs come with two styles of ports so you don't have to do anything. The "M" cables will fit perfectly on the RCA jack but I detest them. It mates with Quantum's that are "M" series. The larger port with the large screw thread is called a DIN. The DIN is stronger more reliable and more secure. It's wires both positive and negative are internal and the only thing the outside does is to connect stronger.

If you already have a QUANTUM "M" series cable, that's the one in the photo with the collet that tightens, send me your cable and I will convert it ( remove the end and upgrade it to the heavier DIN plug) for FREE. All I ever ask is a $4.60 stamp to cover the postage back to you. I'll pay for the DIN connector. another reason for drop shipping if you don't have a cable.

Unscrewing (1) the outside collet all the way exposes the hidden screw and the black or negative solder point (3). If this is screwed in too far it can cause a short and burn the cable.

Notice the screw (4) is over the red or positive wire to the tip ( 2) we have received burnt cables if the wire is stretched beyond certain limits.

The screw has a conical shaped tip and can puncture the red wire. this completes the circuitry. We think enough of you and our product to replace this jack free with the better larger DIN type plug as used on the more expensive Quantum's.

The blades (5) will lose their spring after a while so it is well to not keep the collet screwed on too tight. they snap off if bent.

If you elect to take advantage of the free upgrade offer, do the following. Order the cable from B&H or Adorama and drop ship to me, I will install the larger DIN plug FREE, that's right FREE, I pay for the part and take the other plug in trade. The I will forward the improved plug to you after testing it on my system. This saves time and postage. And I can test drive the whole rig in most cases.

Also you might have an older cable I can modify for you and note: I normally do not charge for this service unless it is really a difficult one or needs other parts. All I ask for is postage. $4.60 Older Quantum coiled cables are fine for Vivitar 283/5 since I'm removing both ends anyway. Don't send me your old electric shaver cable. I use a Gillette. Send me "Buy oddballs from eBay" but don't pay over 8 dollars. Make sure they are "M" cables. They are better than the Turbo cables. The wire for some reason is heavier in the M series. I do take the old Turbo cables and make extensions from them if you wish albiet some fell apart from corrosion when i went to solder them.

Ready made Quantum CABLES cover just about every flash in existence. These are the Quantum cables that fit most flashes and use the " M" RCA female jack already on the battery pack. Just plug into your flash and into the pack and start shooting. Here are the most common flashes namely Nikon, Canon, Vivitar and SunPak. Almost every other cable is available. Just email me. Cables are available for over 200 flashes, including those shown plus Sigma, Phoenix, Kodak, SunPak, Metz, Quantaray, Olympus, Fuji, Promaster, many of those we did this month.

Brand Model Quantum Cable

Nikon SB22 ME

Nikon SB23 MG2

Nikon SB24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 28d, 28dx, 29 MKZ3

Nikon SB600 XK6 / BQB

Nikon SB80DX MKZ3

Nikon SB800 MKZ3

NIKON CAMERAS 4300, 4500, 5000, 5700, 800, 880, 885, 900, 900s,950, 995 MDC2

CANON 420EX MF3

CANON 420EZ MZ2

CANON 430EZ MZ2

CANON 430EX MB2

CANON 540EZ MKZ3

CANON 550EX MKZ3

CANON 580EX MB5

CANON 580EXII MB2

VIVITAR 283, 285, 285 HV MA2

FUJI CAMERAS S1,S2,S3 MDC4

Metz 40MZ - 1,2,3 ME4

Metz 45 CT-CL - 1,2,3,4,5 MM

Metz 54MZ - 3,4 MKZ3

SunPak 120J PRO MA2

SunPak 522, 555 MS

SunPak 622 - 622 PRO MH

SunPak 383 MG2

Fuji S2/S3 Owners Note:
Cables can be modified to fit the new Fuji Pro S3 Digital in about three minutes with one of our adapters. We use a second battery tray so that you can have the choice of internal four AA cells or the Jacobs ProPack with nothing more than inserting the tray which takes about three or less seconds. Any old Quantum Q cable ( Been saving that one from your AE-1 Canon?)

You just write or email Fuji or B&H or Adorama and order a spare tray and drop ship it to me. Send me a Quantum Cable. "M" series, any will do)
Order the Black Box pack for $139.00. All you need is included at that price. Be sure to add the $20.00 Shipping and handling. Total Paypal $159.00

Unlimited power, no more double AA's needed for the S3 owner. Probably the simplest DSLR to modify. No AA battery changes during Weddings. Straight through power at a constant SIX volts, and just might be the ticket for those slow running write times the camera has.

HOW It's DONE

Basically what we do eliminate the entire usage of AA batteries in your setup. AA cells while inconvenient additionally offer no solace to a wedding photographer. They are slow, short powered and in a heavy user like the S2/S3 the only source of power. In addition the shot of the year takes place right only in the midst of a battery change.

Power: Same amperage as the camera and the flashes are designed for with no modifications but about ten times (really about twenty) the battery capacity since SLA batteries are measured on a 20 AMP HOUR draw.